All Cook Must Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.

Daniel Ware
Daniel Ware

Elara Vance is a tech journalist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and consumer electronics.